Regal in Pearls

Mirna Murcia
Abue Jewelry
Instagram: abuejewelry

SUPPLIES

ITEM SIZE AMOUNT COLOR PURCHASE
PEARLS 8mm 20 WHITE PURCHASE PEARLS
PEARLS 8mm 20 MYSTIC BLACK PURCHASE PEARLS
PEARLS 8mm 18 LIGHT GREY
FIRELINE 8lb CRYSTAL PURCHASE FIRELINE
ROSE MONTEES SS 16 19 BLACK DIAMOND PURCHASE MONTEES
CLASP 1 SILVER PLATED PURCHASE CLASP
CHAIN PURCHASE CHAIN
SEED BEADS 11/0
THREAD ZAPPER
CLOSED RINGS
WIRE GUARDIANS 2

INSTRUCTIONS

Step 1: Prepare about one and a half arm spans of thread and put a needle on each end. (You can have an even longer amount if you feel comfortable working with long thread.)

Step 2: To start, pick up three pearls on one needle, let them drop, pick one more pearl on either end of your thread, slide it down on the needle and cross opposite ways through the last pearl. Pull that pearl so that you form your first loop of the necklace – this is your first diamond shape.

Step 3: Repeat the above step: pick one pearl onto each needle let those drop; pick one pearl into one needle and cross that needle the opposite way through that pearl and then when you pull the thread in the opposite directions, you have the next loop.

Step 4: Continue on as above; that is, one pearl on each needle and a third pearl to cross with your needle on the opposite way.

Step 5: Keep on forming the boxes until you reach your desired length; hence at this point, you’ve determined the length of the work.

Step 6: Once you’ve reached the centre of V point of your necklace, you are ready to start the other side of the necklace.

Step 7: use your right-hand thread and pick up two pearls, with the left-hand needle, pick one pearl (two on the right needle). This time we use that single pearl and pass your opposite needle into it so that the needle is going to come on the side pearl allowing you to continue the other side from the centre point up to the end. Note: Make sure that instead of having your needles coming on the centre pearl as you did in the other boxes, this time both needles are crossed into that single pearl.

Step 8: Once you’ve made your way to start the diamonds in the upward position, keep going with the same pattern as before – One pearl into each needle, then let those fall, then pick up a pearl into a needle and cross the needle into that third pearl you’ve just picked up.

Step 9: Finish up to the end of the piece and add the closed ring that will hold the chain which we connect in the very last steps. Add 4 x size 8 seed beads, thread on a wire guardian, and make sure your thread travels on the groove of the guardian, let the ring slide in the wire protector.

Step 10: Pick 4 more seed beads and pass your thread onto the centre pearl, if possible repeat this step to reinforce the grip of the wire guardian against the closed ring.

Step 11: It is time to reinforce, repeat the last step: thread back along your seed beads, then through your wire guardian and back again into the seed beads on the other side and thread back through the centre pearl; travel around that pearl and make sure to give at least three knots to make your piece strong and durable. Tip: At this point we are done with adding the close ring and wire guardians; it is a good idea to start with a new piece of thread given that right now the next step is to start your embellishment.

Adding the Montees:

Step 12: Prepare one and a half arm spans of fireline and thread a needle onto each end.

Step 13: With the two needles, work your way out of the first pearl and pull that thread to make sure you have about the same length on both sides to start with the embellishment.

Step 14: Pick 4 seed beads into each needle, pick up a montee with the crystal piece facing up, stick the needle into one hole or “X” shape of the montee; pass the other needle on the other side of the X and pull, add 4 seed beads into each needle and then cross both loaded needles into the very next pearl in the centre. When you pull your thread the opposite ways, you’ll get your first embellishment.

Step 15: Continue adding embellishment until you get to the centre.

Step 16: There will be a point in the V or centre point where you have reached a dead end, you will need to get in position to continue working on the other side with embellishment way up to the other end of the work.

Follow this diagram to thread back to initiate the upward embellishments. 

Bottom Pearls:

Step 17: Starting from the bottom pearl, pass the thread through the pearl on the left.  Continue upward to thread through the next pearl, then thread through the pearl above the thread that was on the right of the bottom pearl gets passed through the pearl directly above the bottom pearl.  This leaves the threads in the correct position to start up adding montees on the other side of the necklace. Continue adding the montees until the end pearl is reached and you are ready to add the wire protector with the closed ring. The steps for this are exactly the same we did when the first set of these two were added.

Step 18: After exiting from the middle pearl with the last 4 seed beads, get your wire guardian and stitch along the groove of the guardian while inserting it on the closed ring.

Step 19: Add four more beads on the other side of the guardian and thread back in the mid pearl, repeat to reinforce this spot if possible one more time three different spots in your work. You may need to use a thread zapper to secure the ends.

Step 20: Last step: add your chain to the final work. Add a lobster clasp to you chain on one end and a jump ring on the other end.

These instructions are written in a very general form; the idea is that the technique is shown to you. Later, you’ll be able to experiment with your own ideas by building your based necklace and add a second layer of embellishments.

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